Wjb Vs Power Stop Vs Moog Wheel Hub Review

Seems my wife's Buick Rendezvous needs a new LF hub bearing over again (a common problem with the W-body platform). What would be your pick from the following choices?

Chinese brands I've never heard of - $30-$47
Dorman - $68
Raybestos - $78
Timken - $91
Moog - $96
SKF - $118

Thank you for your input!

I'd purchase the Timken or SKF begetting out of those picks. Both are generally quality units. I dunno if anyone used Timken every bit OEM, but SKF was the OEM for a lot of Chryslers / Jeeps.

I buy Timken for everything

Timken or SKF, whichever is easier to become. Have yous checked rockauto.com nevertheless?

I went timken for mine. Seem to be good quality.

sergio Reader
2/17/16 nine:25 a.one thousand.

On the former bearing, if y'all can pull either seal out, see how much grease is in the bearing. I bet there's none.

If the seal on the new bearing can be removed without damage, pack some hi-temp bike bearing grease.

We were having major forepart bike bearing failure every 14hrs of endurance racing on our SHO. When nosotros took a new bearing(Timken) apart the reason was obvious, very little grease. Since packing them with hi-temp grease we accept raced over 40hrs on the aforementioned bearings.

NickD HalfDork
2/17/sixteen ix:29 a.m.

Whenever I hear Timken, I think of this promotion they did for their roller bearings on the New York Cardinal Niagra-form engines. They had 4 models actually pull the locomotive with ropes tied to it to demonstrate how smooth rolling they were. Pretty cool stuff. Kinda sells me on Timken stuff

I utilise Timken now.

I used an SKF on SWMBO's W-Body Grand Prix at around 95K miles. Had to exercise it once more iii years and 25K later.

sergio wrote: On the old bearing, if you lot can pull either seal out, come across how much grease is in the bearing. I bet at that place's none. If the seal on the new bearing can exist removed without damage, pack some hi-temp wheel bearing grease. We were having major front wheel bearing failure every 14hrs of endurance racing on our SHO. When we took a new bearing(Timken) autonomously the reason was obvious, very niggling grease. Since packing them with hello-temp grease we have raced over 40hrs on the same bearings.

A agree, if you can remove the seal without damage practise pack ameliorate grease in the bearing. Just don't over do it. I did this to a bearing on my race car and when it got hot is expanded and pushed some of it out past the seals. No existent damage but it made a mess and if it had gotten on the brake pads or rotor it could take caused me issues.

I've been beating the hell out of some Timken wheel bearings (or more like axle bearings on the rear) in my Samurai over the last couple of years, no issues and so far.

I used to become with just timken only I had a problem with some I installed a couple years agone and someone said timken started out sourcing? I'thousand not certain if it's true but since those bearings went out in less than a twelvemonth on a stock car I've gone back to skf

Edit: quick google search and the first link says they accept moved production to India and People's republic of china...in 2002. Now I guess I should expect upwards skf,

Edit2: looks similar skf outsources too. What I came across is that many big name bearings postage stamp the land of origin on the bearing. So if you lot care, go to the parts store and see if they have a state yous like, if not, whatever I guess it doesn't matter when everything is produced overseas at present and a name is just a name

kb58 Dork
2/17/16 5:57 p.one thousand.

China makes just equally much high-quality kick-butt stuff every bit we do. The difference is that Americans will only pay for the cheap crappy stuff, so that's what they send us... My guess is that the loftier-stop stuff is still high-terminate.

In reply to kb58:

Precisely, the loftier stop stuff made overseas is for the most part still high end.

Kylini HalfDork
ii/17/sixteen vi:52 p.1000.

I've heard goose egg but proficient things about Timken from Miata racers. I've personally not had an issue with Raybestos on the Intrepid.

kb58 wrote: China makes simply as much high-quality boot-butt stuff as we do. The difference is that Americans volition but pay for the inexpensive crappy stuff, and so that's what they transport united states of america... My guess is that the high-end stuff is still high-cease.

Exactly this. Getting good quality stuff made in China is only slightly cheaper than making it in the US, a lot of times, so it's only washed for sure types of products. Only making garbage products in China is much cheaper than making them in the United states of america, so we tend to see more skillful products from the U.s.a. and crap from China, even though that'south not a difficult and fast rule.

BTD New Reader
2/17/xvi x:23 p.m.

My feel (from my Exocet, YMMV only I doubt it):

Shopping for some replacement hubs for my Exocet. I know I can go with blueprinted and rebuilt OEM units for ~$100 per hub, but I was browsing Rock Auto and saw two brands:

WJB Bearings - $23/hub Dura International - $25/hub

Googled both, found this link on Dura:

Dura Brake Rotor Lawsuit

OK great, and so they're out. Then I googled WJB, and establish their somehwat professional looking site stating they accept their HQ in North America (in CA) but couldn't find anything on the spider web about them, good or bad.

http://www.wjbgroup.us/

I purchased the WJB hubs to see the quality and and then compared them to a Moog unit of measurement at a local auto parts shop. Estimate which ane I took home?

Honestly, I would be agape to even use the WJB units. They are about one-half as thick as the Moog units, which is a HUGE difference when we're talking almost the part that is responsible for such trivial things like holding your brakes and wheels on your auto.

The bearings are also night and day. The WJB units are clearly stamped made in China, and the bearings are either plastic sealed or non sealed at all and packed with terrible grease, depending on if y'all're looking at the forepart or the back. When I bolted ane to the car, it didn't even spin (at all, even pushing on it) when torqued down.

The Moog units are made in Japan, have nicely sealed bearings and are overall much better fit/finish wise. You'll as well notice that the torso of them doesn't taper down like the WJB units do, which is pretty clearly a price saving measure by them. The Moog units are better in every way.

C/N: Don't buy cheap suspension parts.

WJB on left, Moog on right:

Outside of WJB begetting:

Outside of Moog Bearing:

Inside of WJB bearing:

Inside of Moog bearing:

to be honest i dont have much feel with any of those options except moog and there stuff has ever got the job washed. They also make proficient steering components

I've got Timkens on the Camaro, which is a notoriously hard car on front bike bearings. No play yet afterward one full season of auto x on 275 street tires (which is admittedly non that much use, but its not uncommon for these cars to burn through a set in a single track solar day.)

I hear practiced things virtually SKF as well. They actually take a institute across town from my piece of work, so clearly they all the same practise some Us manufacturing.

Lotta love for the Timkens from y'all guys, so I think that's what I'll guild. Thanks.

Incidentally, the original LF hub bearing failed at 55K miles - master symptom was loud growling and vibration through the cycle. A buddy whose married woman had a Chevy Venture gave me a new-in-the-box hub bearing he'd bought at Advance, and a quick part# check showed it would fit. Information technology is still quiet at 102K miles, but when I rotated the tires final, I noticed there's a lot of play in it now, and it's the same amount of play whether you grasp the tire at 12 and 6, or at 3 and nine, then I don't think it's necktie rod ends or ball joints.

Oddly plenty, the original RF hub bearing and both rear bearings are still tight and repose.

I offered to buy Mrs. Barchetta a second-hand RX330, just she says she loves her Buick "and besides, it's your turn to buy a new car." She's a keeper.

Purchase Timken and support my local economy

In reply to BTD:

Your Moog unit is actually an SKF.

Finally ordered the Timken begetting and installed it concluding weekend. And then far, so good, and RockAuto dropped the price by $12 since my initial postal service. Winner, winner, craven (nugget) dinner. Thank you, you guys.

Only to add, when I worked in our mechanic shop at my visitor, we used timken on all of our final drives on our Caterpillar crawlers without an issue. Drought you will put that kind of penalization on your street vehicle

BTD New Reader
6/23/sixteen nine:56 a.m.

Javelin wrote: In reply to BTD: Your Moog unit is actually an SKF.

TIL

Skillful to know!

One of my grandfathers retired from Timken and then I am a petty biased. On the other paw the 82 SAAB 900 my Dad bought when we lived in Deutschland had Timken wheel bearing in it and was going strong at 210K miles when I wrecked it with the original WBs.

gonzalezableatifes.blogspot.com

Source: https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/whats-the-best-wheelhub-bearing/110573/page1/

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